Depuis le 17 avril date à laquelle le gouvernement nippon a décrété le confinement, KABUKICHO le plus grand quartier chaud du Japon est déserté.
Le 19 avril, Kabukicho (arrondissement de Shinjuku, Tokyo) a vu sa population nocturne chuter de 80 000 en à peine une semaine depuis le début du confinement. Le plus grand quartier chaud du Japon devenu aussi une attraction touristique pour les touristes étrangers ces dernières années, fait grise mine. A peine une semaine plus tôt, les employés sortis du bureau ou les touristes à la quête du divertissement remplissaient les ruelles de ce quartier de plaisir animé de Tokyo.
L’effervescence et les enseignes publicitaires clinquantes ne sont plus qu’un souvenir du passé. Aujourd’hui les bars, les restaurants et les night clubs ont baissé le rideau. Les commerces ont commencé à se retirer et leurs employés ayant perdu leur emploi ont quitté.
Un quartier fantôme
Le soir du 17 avril malgré un vendredi, le Golden Gai (un district de Kabukicho) où près de 300 bars ont pignon sur rue, était plongé dans un silence glauque. Dans une ruelle seuls 5 bars étaient ouverts sur 40. Une patronne de 71 ans soupire : « c’est la première fois depuis que j’ai ce commerce que j’ai si peu de clients. Ma recette a diminué de 90%. Mais je ne peux pas fermer car je dois payer le loyer. Malgré les arrêtés municipaux du 10 avril, j’ai continué comme je peux ». Aujourd’hui ce qui la fait tenir est la promesse de retour envoyée par courriels par ses habitués, dès que la situation revient à la normale.
Ma recette a diminué de 90%
Patronne d’un bar
Selon les données rendues publiques par la société Agoop, spécialisée dans la géolocalisation des smartphones, pas moins de 99 500 personnes fréquentaient le quartier de Kabukicho les vendredis de janvier vers 20 heures 30. Or le 17 avril, le quartier n’en comptait que 18 500. C’est l’équivalent de la population d’une ville de province qui aurait donc disparu depuis le début du confinement. D’après la mairie de Shinjuku, moins 10% de la population locale fréquente Kabukicho, le reste étant principalement des clients des restaurants venus d’ailleurs.
La mairie a été submergée de demandes d’arrêt provisoire des activités, nécessaires au versement des aides financières promises par la municipalité et l’Etat aux commerces. Après le métier de bouche, c’est l’hôtellerie qui souffre le plus. Certains établissements ont vu la fréquentation divisée par cinq.
Les conséquences économiques
Les employés des bars et des restaurants ont perdu leur travail du fait de la fermeture de leurs établissements. Beaucoup étaient des jeunes étudiants qui y faisaient des petits boulots. Une étudiante de 19 ans ne cache pas son inquiétude :« Je suis venu à Kabukicho chercher du travail mais je n’en trouve pas. Alors je vais chercher ailleurs sinon je ne pourrais pas continuer à payer mes factures ». Le ministère japonais des affaires intérieures et des communications (Somusho), a estimé en 2016 , que Kabukicho emploie 11000 travailleurs dont plus de la moitié dans le secteur de la restauration et de l’hôtellerie. Les aides financières promises par le gouvernement aide « aide au maintien d’activité » ( 持続化給付金) ou par la mairie de Tokyo (協力金) s’élèveront respectivement de 8300 EUR à 16600 EUR et de 4100 EUR à 8300 EUR. Toutefois leur versement ne sera fait qu’en mai.
Je suis venu à Kabukicho chercher du travail mais je n’en trouve pas. Alors je vais chercher ailleurs sinon je ne pourrais pas continuer à payer mes factures
Une étudiante de 19 ans
Un patron d’izakaya (bar à tapas japonais) qui a perdu 80% de la clientèle depuis le début du confinement affirme qu’il ne pense pas pouvoir tenir financièrement jusqu’au versement des aides promises par les autorités. Même son de cloche chez un patron de restaurant de bento à emporter. En effet il ne pense pas que sa trésorerie supportera les charges fixes comme les loyers et les salaires jusqu’au versement tant attendu des aides.
Le fantôme d’une réputation sulfureuse guette
L’insécurité un autre souci pour le quartier. En effet , Kabuchicho a une triste réputation d’un quartier chaud devenu théâtre de nombreux règlements de compte entre les Yakuza (la pègre japonaise) dans les années 80 et 90. Ce n’est que dans les années 2000 où grâce à la fréquentation de la clientèle féminine et des touristes étrangers qu’il a su progressivement redorer son image. Or , le confinement est arrivé à un moment où le quartier n’a pas entièrement purger les images du passé, ce qui risque un retour en arrière. Ainsi, Masaru JO, président de l’association des commerçants de Kabukicho redoute que « le confinement aura causé un dommage irréparable à l’image du quartier ».
Comme pour appuyer son inquiétude, un responsable de la police craint que le retrait des commerçants légaux, favorisera l’implantation des activités illicites gérées par des groupes de gangs, comme le trafic de stupéfiants ou d’armes.
Le professeur honoraire de l’université Waseda, Kazuichi TONUMA , ayant longtemps contribué au développement du quartier de Kabukicho de conclure avec philosophie : « L’heure est encore au combat contre le Corona virus. C’est un point de départ pour une nouvelle réflexion sur l’image et le futur du quartier».
NIKKEI 19/04/2020 (sources 8万人消えた歌舞伎町。店舗撤退で治安悪化のおそれ)
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